ONE HOUR FROM: Rio de Janeiro; Go barefoot in Brazil
Independent on Sunday, The, Nov 17, 2002 by Ian McCurrach
With its long stretches of beaches and chic resorts, it's time to go nuts in
Brazil.
Niteroi
It used to be said that the best thing about Niteroi, the old capital of Rio
de Janeiro state, was the view back across Guanabara Bay. But today, Niteroi
is again on the map, as the home of the new Museum of Contemporary Art
designed by Brazil's signature architect, Oscar Niemeyer. Visit the Santa
Cruz fort, which guards the entrance to the bay and sits opposite Sugar
Loaf.
By car: follow the nine-mile long Rio-Niteroi bridge; journey time approx 30
mins. By boat: frequent ferry service from Praca 15 de Novembro; journey
time approx 15 mins.
Petropolis
Head for the hills and follow in the footsteps of Dom Pedro II, who built
his Imperial Palace in this mountain city in 1845, high above Rio. The
mountain scenery en route is breathtaking, as are the sparkling Brazilian
crown jewels in the Museu Imperial, which is so well preserved it is hard to
imagine that the imperial family left back in 1889. Other top sights include
the cathedral, which houses the tombs of the Imperial family and the Crystal
Palace.
By car: take the Linha Vermelha and follow signs on the BR-040; journey time
approx 1 hour plus. By bus: frequent service from Novo Rio bus terminal;
journey time approx 1 hour plus.
Barra da Tijuca
Be like the Brazilians who favour the wonderful beaches of Barra, which
leave Ipanema and Copacabana in the shade. This district is quickly becoming
the city's hippest. Comparisons are often made to Miami because Barra is
home to Latin America's largest shopping centres, Barra Shopping and
Carrefour, as well as theme parks such as Wet 'n' Wild and Rio Water Planet.
By car: take the coast road south; journey time approx 40mins. By bus: take
no 175 or 176 from the centre of Rio; journey time approx 50 mins.
Grumari and Prainha
Beyond the end of Barra, following the coast along past Recreio dos
Bandeirantes, are unspoilt and deserted beaches. Prainha is a surfers'
beach, so the main focus for visitors is the larger Grumari, which is empty
except for a few restaurants. Look out for Roberto Burle-Marx's estate,
considered to be one of the greatest influences on 20th-century landscape
design.
By car: take the coast road south; journey time approx 50 mins.
Pedra de Guaratiba and the Green Coast
As major weekend escapes for Rio residents, the Green Coast and Pedra de
Guaratiba are hard to beat. The Green Coast with its fabulous unspoilt
beaches stretches some 175 miles. Closer to town is Pedra de Guaratiba, a
small fishing village with outstanding seafood restaurants, most notably
Bira's, Candido's and Quatro Sete Meia.
By car: take the BR-101 following then signs for Santa Cruz, then Pedra;
journey time approx 1 hour plus.
Buzios
Buzios is the cream of coastal Brazil. With some 23 beaches, gorgeous inns,
scores of charming restaurants, shops and fabulous bars and nightclubs, you
might never want to return to Rio. Brought to the world's attention in 1964
by Brigitte Bardot, who famously walked along the beach barefoot in front of
the world's press, Buzios has long been a favourite of the international jet
set.
By car: cross the Niteroi Bridge and follow the BR-101, then the RJ-106 and
look for signs; journey time approx 1 hour plus.
South American Experience (020 7976 5511; www.south americanexperience.co.uk)
offers seven nights at the three-star Rio Copa Hotel in Copacabana from
pounds 799 per person, based on two sharing, including return flights with
Varig, transfers and four days' car hire.
